PART I: The WOW Hiking Event
The Marvelous Hiking Trail: Old Wuta Hiking Trail in Nan-ao
Few days ago, Robert posted on Forumosa.com that he would go to explore Zhong-yue Stream (仲岳溪) hiking trail in Nan-ao (南澳), and hikers who would like to join in the hike were welcome. I had great interest in the hike and felt like to come along. The weather has been really nice for days in Taipei. The sky of Taipei city has been brightly blue dotted with some white clouds. The grayish sky that Taipei city used to have was gone. I didn’t want to miss this chance to explore unknown natural region in such a fine day, and I want to enjoy warm sunny day outdoor; so I readjusted my working schedule and took part in the hike. Thursday is regular work day for most people, so Chris and Kitty couldn’t make the trip. It turned out that only Robert and I could go hiking in Nan-ao.
Our rendezvous time was 8:00 in Mu-zha (木柵)。We were slow down because of the heavy traffic during rush hours. But after we hit the highway to Yi-lan (宜蘭), there was almost no traffic, and we arrived at Tou-cheng (頭城) approximately in one hour. We took Road No. 9 (台九線：蘇花公路段) and headed to Nan-fan-ao (南方澳) and then got to Nan-ao. This trip was Robert’s second or third time to visit Nan-ao, so the drive to Nao-ao was smooth, and it was much better than the drive Katannya and he had in their trip to Nan-ao river-tracing few weeks before. (Please refer to the blog: Pashan for further details) We only spent about two hours getting to the country road leading to the trailhead of Zhong-yue Stream hiking trail. The scenery along the country road was very nice, and the road’s surface was well-maintained, we both thought the road was perfect for cycling. Soon we got to the trailhead without encountering any obstacle.
After we arrived at the trailhead of Zhong-yue Stream hiking trail, Robert found the country road seemed to continuously lead to other places. Out of his curiosity, he decided to move forward to see what kind of surrounding at the end of the road would be. As we got to the end of the road, two branch trails appeared. One of them was a short path leading to a riverbank (Note 1) . We took the trail to the riverbank to check the surroundings out. As we saw the beautiful scenes unfolding in front us, we spontaneously took our cameras to take pictures of this great spot.
Caption: Robert was concentrating on taking pictures of beautiful scenery of the riverbank. However his image doesn’t stand out in my picture because he wore dark-blue clothes.
Caption: Looking at the distant mountains from the riverbank.
註解:河水清澈，我的相機可以輕易地拍攝水中小蝌蚪的影像。先前在三峽滿月園時，我也看到成群的蝌蚪，興沖沖地拍了很多照片，但在回家後才發現，但是受到水質混濁的影響，照片裡的小蝌蚪都糊掉了。Caption: The stream was very clean. I could take images of those tadpoles in the stream easily with my not state-of-the-art camera (Note2).
Another trail at the end of road was Old Wuta hiking trail.
In the past, Atayal people traveled to coastal regions in order to fetch salt. It was important for Atayal people to contact with other regions. However, the Ching government and Japanese colonial government took the advantage of the trail respectively to intrude Atayal villages. (Note1)
另一條小徑，則是舊武塔古道。Another trail at the end of road was Old Wuta (舊武塔) hiking trail.
In the past, Atayal people traveled to coastal regions in order to fetch salt. It was important for Atayal people to contact with other regions. However, the Ching government and Japanese colonial government took the advantage of the trail respectively to intrude Atayal villages.(Note3)
註解:舊武塔古道介紹說明板 Caption: The introduction board of the Old Wuta hiking trail
Robert在看完登山口的介紹後，當下決定捨棄仲岳溪步道，改為探勘舊武塔古道。Robert read the introduction board and changed his mind immediately. He decided to explore the Old Wuta hiking trail instead of Zhong-yue Stream hiking trail.
We took the Old Wuta hiking trail. Robert confidently moved forward in big strides; however, I didn’t have confidence as he did because I didn’t know what would be waiting for me on the road and I dislike things out of my control. Fear and excitement came to me simultaneously. I felt like I was a timid little mouse tagging along behind Robert, flinching from stepping into traps, but reluctantly moving forward because of my anticipation of the beautiful scenery along the trail.
As we hiked on the Old Wuta hiking trail, I found that the trail’s condition was pretty good. The trail was not as challenging as I was afraid of. The forest was graceful and had multiple facets. I could see lush forest in different tones of green, and I could see rains of yellow and orange leaves swinging and falling down on the ground.
The path was full of wonders!
"This is amazing!" I exclaimed with excitement as I looked at the trail's left side.
"That is wonderful!" I shouted as I looked at the trail's right side..
And I repeatedly said: "This is paradise!"
I think I was very noisy and talkative that day. I thought reason must be that I had too much coffee and was caffeine overdosed.
But the region is ABOSLUTELY like a paradise. That's the really reason why I was so excited.
In 1889, LIU Chao-dai (劉朝帶), LIU Ming-chuan's nephew, led a team about 500 soldiers developed a path in mountainous region at Xiao Pi-nan-tang (小埤南塘) in Xiao Nan-ao, they tried to find a route to reach San-pu-li village (前山埔里社). In search of San-pu-li village, LIU Chao-dai and his men were attacked by Atayal people of Lao-gou-fan village (Lao-gou-fan, 老狗番, literally means old dog barbarian) at Dong-si-ren-keng (Dong-si-ren-keng, 凍死人坑, literally means freeze to death in Chinese). Approximately 300 soldiers were killed in this encounter which included LIU Chao-dai himself.
LIU Ming-chuan was furious as he learned the news and decided to punished the Atayal people from Lao-gou-fan village.
In 1890, LIU, Ming-chuan turned to the Navy of Fu-jian province for naval support. He acquired armed forces, weaponry, salary, and food supply. His troops stationed in Su-ao(蘇澳)
國家步道系統 (中文) http://www1.forest.gov.tw/nt/TR_F_02.aspx
National Trail System (English) http://www1.forest.gov.tw/NationalTrailSystem_En/TR_F_02.htm
I wrote this additional information in English and I don’t translate them into Chinese because this additional information is written in Chinese.
Lanyang Museum News Letters(蘭陽電子報) http://ilmuse.gov.tw/~epaper/form/pastnews.htm
Among the news letters, a issue titled with 2008年2月第37期電子報(南澳鄉巴博凱凱社) is articles about a investigation of the Atayal village--b' bukeykay in Nanao.
A very simplied translation into English by me.
The author led a team to go to Nanao mountain region and the route they took is below:
1. 舊武塔古道 (Old Wuta trail, I learned from the article that this trail is the Eastern part of 比亞豪 Biyahao古道old trail, Biyahao trail starts from 金洋村 Jinyang Village to 四季 Sici, this trail is planed to be renovated by Forestry Bureau.)
2. 合流溪(Heliu Stream) to 新楠子駐在所(New Nanzi police station, set up by Japanese)
3. Atayal Gugus village via Japanese police patrol path
4. 布蕭丸溪 (Buxiaowan Stream) to Taipower hut in 砲台山 (Paotai Shan)
5. Camped at Taipower hut because of a member's muscle cramp.
1. 布蕭丸溪 (Buxiaowan Stream) to 舊楠子駐在所(Old Nanzi police station, set up by Japanese)
2. 和平北溪 (Hepin Northern Stream)
3. Atayal haburns' lus village, set up a camp site.
1. 和平西北溪 (Hepin Northwestern Stream)
2. 各姆河 (Gemu River)
3. Atayal b'bukeykay village
After their investigation at Atayal b'bukeykay village, they took same route back to Wuta village.
Note: They had to do river tracing whenever they encountered rivers or streams.
Here is the site of this river tracing group, two teams from the site took trip along Old Wuta trail and got to a hot spring fountain called Mohe Hot Spring Fountain(莫很噴泉). The site provides with few interesting videos of the hot spring fountain
http://dar999.pixnet.net/blog/post/14386004And this team's pictures give their readers great understanding of the route's condition.
This team took similar route that taken by the abovementioned research team.
According to the aritlce from the river-tracing site, there are great hot spring and hot spring fountain in Buxiaowan Stream (布蕭丸溪) and Mohen Stream (莫很溪).
PART II: Finding Nemo